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Exploring Okinawa – the ‘Hawaii of Japan’

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And an aquarium giant sufficient to have a whale shark

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On a current journey to Japan, we determined to discover Okinawa, the ‘Hawaii of Japan’: a bunch of islands common with home vacationers, but only a few worldwide guests.

Among the islands are inhabited, some are untouched white sand surrounded by azure seas, whereas others are scattered with luxurious resorts on the fringe of pristine dive websites. The farthest, the Yaeyama Islands, are wealthy with lush-mangrove swamps, rivers, waterfalls, and dense jungle.

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Located within the East China Sea, near Taiwan, Okinawa is humid and subtropical all year long, and in contrast to the mainland, has a relaxed-beachy vibe, and a sluggish tempo of life. The eponymous most important island, at 112 kms lengthy and 11 kms broad, is the most important of greater than 160 that make up the nation’s southernmost and westernmost prefecture.

Imgya Marine Garden
Surroundings from Imgya Marine Backyard on Miyakojima, Okinawa. Photograph by Getty Pictures

We have been lucky to spend 14 nights on this pure paradise. We stayed mid-island in a beautiful seaside lodge, Laguna Backyard Resort in Ginowan, paying the equal of $1,100 CA every, which included, full breakfast, and return flights from Osaka. As a result of we had the luxurious of time, our autumn journey to Japan was on a 17-day repositioning cruise from Vancouver to Yokohama at much less value than a one-way airfare.

Most Okinawa journeys start with touchdown at Naha; the political, financial, and cultural heart of the island. The inhabitants is roughly 350,000 and is an enthralling mixture of a vibrant capital metropolis and an outdated fort city, with quaint streets lined with palm bushes. A monorail system often known as Yu Rail offering entry to many of the most important points of interest.

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The Okinawa Prefecture Museum and Artwork Museum is a wonderful start line previous to visiting Shurijo Fortress Park, as soon as residence to the fort of the Ryukyu Kingdom, who dominated the islands for 450 years.

Your subsequent cease ought to be Shikinaen Backyard, a spot of recreation for the royal household, constructed within the 18th century and now a World Heritage Website. It’s a circuit backyard with a standard Japanese format, centred on a pond with a number of islands, stone bridges, and tranquil walkways.

Shuri Castle
Protecting wall on the grounds of Shuri Fortress in Naha, Okinawa, Japan. Photograph by Getty Pictures

Additionally go to Kokusai-dori, an extended shopping-and-entertainment road within the coronary heart of the town, and Heiwa-dori market road – a dynamic space promoting native crafts. This district was began by widows who misplaced their husbands within the Battle of Okinawa.

For ease of journey we used taxis to get round. (Sadly, the very environment friendly and cheap JR Rail Community serving the mainland doesn’t function in Okinawa.) The fares are regulated, fairly priced, and we by no means waited longer than ten minutes for service.

Touring round Okinawa on this method was a pleasure, significantly within the far north the place the highway hugs the scenic shoreline, passing by means of small villages, and reaching distant abandoned seashores.The variety of surroundings right here is breathtakingly stunning and dominated by Yanbaru Nationwide Park.

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Whereas Okinawa is legendary for its naturally beautiful panorama there are lots of points of interest, theme parks, historic and cultural websites, and actions to take pleasure in. A spotlight was Okinawa World within the south. Right here you may tour Gyokusendo Cave, the park’s most important attraction. Stretching for five kms, this hovering underground cave has 300,000-years-old limestone buildings, with a wide range of shapes and hues. Though there’s a metal walkway to view the almost a million stalagmites and stalactites, there are quite a few steep & slender passages making this attraction difficult for these with mobility points or those that expertise claustrophobia.

Kuroshio Sea tank
A whale shark within the Kuroshio Sea tank. Photograph by Getty Pictures

Equally attention-grabbing was Churaumi Aquarium, one of many largest aquariums on the planet. Right here you may observe whale sharks, and manta rays, and a few of the world’s largest fish within the huge dynamic Kuroshio Sea tank. The park grounds are huge and in an impressive setting on the coast of Motobu Peninsula. You additionally get a wonderful view of Mount Omoto, a nationally ‘designated Place of Scenic Magnificence’, on Ishigaki Island.

Enroute to the aquarium, our driver stopped on the westside of Onna Village to view Manzamo, a 20-meter-high Ryukyu scenic rock formation fashioned by elevated coral reef resembling an elephant. And likewise included a cease to a recreated historic Ryukyu village.

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The American Affect

In direction of the tip of WWII, Okinawa was the positioning of Japan’s sole home floor battle. Few conflicts in trendy historical past have been fought with such ferocity because the Battle of Okinawa. After the battle, the area was ruled by U.S. army for 27 years earlier than it was returned to Japan in 1972.

After coming back from our journey, I learn a fantastically written memoir by Elizabeth Miki Brina (Classic Books, February 2022) “Converse, Okinawa”, the place she involves phrases with the dynamics of her circle of relatives reconciled with the injustices of the current historical past of Okinawa.

Given the persevering with American presence on the island attributable to Kadena Air Base, the most important and most lively U.S. base in East Asia, we have been stunned how little English is spoken exterior of the most important motels or Mihama Village in Chatan, the place the American army’s tradition and meals created a westernized part of the island.

A very fashionable spot is an A&W, in-built November 1963, which continues to serve clients in a drive-in setting, full with roller-skating attendants and a car-window stand to carry your meals. Blasting from parking-lot audio system is early-Sixties music, greatest characterised as Surf Rock or the ‘California sound’ – Dick Dale, Seashore Boys, Jan and Dean, and so forth.

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Naha, Okinawa
Naha, Okinawa, downtown skyline at night time. Photograph by Getty Pictures

A lifestyle preserved

Japanese is the principle language spoken in Okinawa; nonetheless, there’s a distinctive dialect. There may be actually no shock that the age-old cultures, practices, and even languages spoken again within the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom are preserved nonetheless in the present day, attributable to geographical isolation.

Many individuals of Okinawa nonetheless see themselves ethnically separate from the mainland Japanese, preserving their very own tradition handed down by means of generations. We observed this each in meals and gown.

It was not straightforward in eating places to get typical Japanese meals (ie. sushi, sashimi, tempura, yakitori, gyoza) though the grocers have infinite aisles of ready takeaway at very economical costs. As an alternative within the native diners, you’ll discover that Okinawan delicacies (or Ryukyuan delicacies) incorporates much more pork, candy potato, and soybean merchandise.

Moreover, though sake is a well-liked drink on the island, the favoured native drink is awamori – which, like sake, incorporates rice as its most important ingredient, however that’s the place the similarities finish. Distilled, not brewed, the native spirit packs a punch, with an alcoholic content material starting from 30 to 43 %.

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Tamaudun Mausoleum
Tamaudun Mausoleum in Okinawa, Japan. The stays of 18 Ryuku kings and their households are entombed at Tamaudun. Photograph by Getty Pictures

Kariyushi put on is a mode of gown worn all through Okinawa Prefecture for the reason that Nineteen Seventies. Loosely translating to ‘concord’ or ‘happiness’ clothes, the model was derived from the normal Hawaiian aloha shirts. These are tremendous fashionable clothes, and really dignified in model and design. The prefectural authorities additionally encourages Kariyushi to be worn by staff as enterprise or gown put on.

Okinawa is residence to a few of the oldest folks on the planet, the typical life expectancy is 88 years. At one time, it was referred to as ‘the land of immortals.’ The island phrase ‘nuchi gusui’ means ‘the drugs of life’ and refers back to the all-encompassing beliefs and practices folks from this space of the world attribute to their sometimes lengthy, vibrant, and wholesome lives – sturdy dedication to household and buddies, purpose-imbued lives, meals excessive in vitamins and low in energy, each day out of doors bodily exercise, and kindness at each alternative.

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